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Cult Japanese cafe Kurumac’s sibling Poketto serves brunch hits with a ‘tweezered’ twist

The third venture from the team behind the top-20-ranked cafe promises an “elevated” take on its signature onigiri sets and seafood rice bowls, plus new dishes and matcha-limoncello cocktails.

Bianca Hrovat
Bianca Hrovat

The team behind popular Marrickville cafe Kurumac have transformed a former Cadbury chocolate factory into Poketto, a contemporary Japanese-inspired cafe with a former Young Chef of the Year finalist manning the kitchen.

The new 25-seater is the third venture for owners Eugene Leung and Dika Brianata, who have worked alongside executive chef Junichi Okamatsu for more than eight years.

The team has developed a cult following among Sydney’s brunch set, first for Kirribilli cafe Cool Mac and then for Kurumac, which rates among the top 20 cafes in the current The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide.

Junichi Okamatsu (right) with Young Chef of the Year finalist Jack Mosher in the Poketto kitchen.
Junichi Okamatsu (right) with Young Chef of the Year finalist Jack Mosher in the Poketto kitchen.Wolter Peeters

At Poketto, Okamatsu will be assisted by Young Chef of the Year finalist Jack Mosher, who worked at hatted venues Ante (Newtown), Poly (Surry Hills) and the now-closed Automata (Chippendale).

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“We want the dishes to keep that same, homey feel we’re known for, while also refining and elevating them. There’s a lot more tweezing involved.”
Eugene Leung

The light-filled industrial space features exposed brick walls and high wooden beams. It was passed on from previous tenants Sample Coffee Roasters, who felt the area needed “something different from the traditional sandwich, cafe fare”, Leung says. “It needed something new and fresh.”

Okamatsu’s signature dishes, such as the onigiri (rice ball) set and kaisen don (seafood rice bowl), will be available at Poketto with a fresh, “elevated” twist. For the latter, that means a selection of seafood (monkfish, kingfish, scallops, crab and seared salmon) atop sushi rice, studded with briny cod roe and chives ($34).

Mentaiko udon with cod roe, shimeji mushrooms and cream.
1 / 3Mentaiko udon with cod roe, shimeji mushrooms and cream.Wolter Peeters
Kinako (roasted soybean) panna cotta.
2 / 3Kinako (roasted soybean) panna cotta.Wolter Peeters
Keema curry (dry curry with chicken mince, rice and egg).
3 / 3Keema curry (dry curry with chicken mince, rice and egg).Wolter Peeters

“We want the dishes to keep that same, homey feel we’re known for, while also refining and elevating them,” explains Leung. “There’s a lot more tweezing involved.”

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Despite the compact menu at Poketto (owing to a far smaller kitchen, says Leung), there are plenty of new dishes to try, including mentaiko (cod roe) udon with hearty shimeji mushrooms and cream ($24), kinako (roasted soybean) panna cotta ($14), and dry keema (minced meat) curry with chicken and rice ($24).

“We wanted people who liked visiting our other venues to be able to come here and try something different,” says Leung.

Poketto is housed in a former Cadbury chocolate factory.
Poketto is housed in a former Cadbury chocolate factory.Wolter Peeters

The creativity extends to the drinks menu, where a liquor licence has allowed for two cocktails: a matcha tonic limoncello ($15) and an umeshu with green tea and mint ($15). They join a small selection of sake, beer, wine and non-alcoholic options including Sample coffee, iced matcha or hojicha lattes, and Leung’s signature concoction of Ribena juice and oolong tea (“it’s very basic, but it’s very tasty”).

Don’t miss the Portuguese tart with miso caramel.
Don’t miss the Portuguese tart with miso caramel.Brook Mitchell
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Glossy, laminated pastries from Darlinghurst bakery Tenacious Bakehouse are available from the counter, including miso caramel Portuguese tarts.

Poketto is open for breakfast and lunch, but Leung says there are plans to host pop-up music or dance events in the near future.

Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm; Sat-Sun 8am 3pm; kitchen closes at 2.30pm daily.

1 Dangar Street, Chippendale, instagram.com/pokettocafe

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Bianca HrovatBianca HrovatBianca is Good Food's Sydney-based reporter.

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Original URL: https://www.theage.com.au/goodfood/sydney-eating-out/cult-japanese-cafe-kurumac-s-sibling-poketto-serves-brunch-hits-with-a-tweezered-twist-20240131-p5f1dn.html