Bacchus does a great impression of a cafe with its appealing breakfasts and leaf teas. But if you thought the umbrellas and French-style wicker pavement furniture were much like any of Milton's many cafes, think again. Come lunch and dinner, with Centennial Parklands alumnus Darren Foots in the kitchen and a drinks list curated by wine writer Greg Duncan Powell (who also does time in the kitchen), the differences become clear. Simplicity is key. from a plate of sizzling chorizo slices with a big chilli hit to just-shucked Clyde River oysters with chardonnay vinegar and Worcestershire dressing. Flathead fillets are crunchily beer-and-vodka battered with incredible thrice-cooked chips and garlic mayo spiked with bush lemon pepper. Slightly grainy white chocolate ganache let down an otherwise lovely summer berry tart, but we'd still return, perhaps for brekkie cooked by Powell.