The big windows of the Sydney specialty roaster's new Melbourne venture give a suitably downtown view of the solemn granite of 333 Collins Street, while inside it's all lime-washed timber, cool greys and whites and some quirky sawlog stools. Barista Paul Schliewe has come south to run the show, but Toby's famed Woolloomooloo blend plays second fiddle to the new Brunswick house blend; it makes a creamy, rich short black with sharp fruit and herby notes, and mellows right out in a piccolo. A brew bar offers siphon, V60 and Chemex pours of Toby's lighter-roast singles: maybe a floral-scented, clean Panama Gesha.