Come autumn, as vine leaves yellow and shed, the view from Salix is whimsically graceful. That sense of seasons aligns with chef Bernard McCarthy's style, which targets strong primary flavours, yet conceals ample technical talent amid seemingly simple dishes. His artisan touch is obvious in a house-made charcuterie tasting plate, as well as the boldly beautiful house-cured and smoked ocean trout with frisee, radish and pickled onion. The menu is also available at the adjacent lunchtime bistro with its outdoor balcony dining, but this room offers a more genteel and generously spaced setting, with paper-on-cloth tables and cheerfully familiar service. Luscious gnocchi with stinging nettle sauce, parmesan shards and spanner crab is carefully balanced, while duck confit on a delightfully deconstructed cassoulet of white beans, Toulouse sausage, chestnut, cavolo nero and garlic crumble is a hit. True sweet-tooths are beady-eyed over the dessert assiette, yet the deft apple and sauternes creme brulee with sable biscuit offers elegant sufficiency.