Kin at All Saints and Glenbosch on Dean winery restaurants open on the Victoria-NSW border
Roadtrippers along the Hume Highway have two new destinations worthy of a stop-off.
Jack Cassidy (ex Jackalope) is spearheading All Saints Estate's new flagship restaurant, Kin, which opened over summer as part of a multimillion dollar facelift of the historic winery in the Rutherglen region.
Replacing Terrace Restaurant, Kin's interior nods to the estate's famous red-brick castle, with brickwork that hugs three eye-catching booths, stone floors and other earthy touches.
Cassidy, who says he's aiming for "country refinement" in his food, is speaking the local language with a menu that features Murray cod, ricotta made with Corowa Dairy milk, and a durif-laced sorbet paired with Italian meringue and local strawberries.
Mount Ophir Estate, part of the All Saints stable, is providing a steady supply of stone fruit, including apricots that are used in a trifle-like dessert and also a hot sauce for Bonnie, the more casual restaurant at All Saints.
Kin's two- and three-course set menus are changing frequently but Cassidy says a crowd favourite is an original take on surf and turf: scallop crudo and taramasalata emulsion with torched house-made guanciale (pork jowl).
Further north, Albury's main street is now home to a magic show of the culinary kind, with South African chef Chris De Jongh using swirls, bubbles, syringes and smoke across a degustation menu at Glenbosch on Dean.
The border city outpost of the Beechworth winery combines cellar door with a 44-seat restaurant, where De Jongh shows off his molecular gastronomy tricks.
The nine-course menu currently includes a "buzz button" – a Sichuan peppercorn flower that's paired with strawberry "caviar" – and a bread course with a biltong and bone marrow candle, with onion "soil" and onion marmalade on the side.
"I love surprising people and taking them out of their comfort zone," De Jongh says.
Kin open Thu-Sun noon-3.30pm, Sat from 6pm, 205 All Saints Road, Wahgunyah, allsaintswine.com.au
Glenbosch on Dean open Wed-Sat noon-9.30pm, 453 Dean Street, Albury, glenbosch.com.au
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