It was a blow to Melbourne’s dining landscape when Carlton stalwart Epocha announced it would close in mid-September after 12 years, owing mainly to the sale of the Victorian terrace it occupies, opposite Carlton Gardens on Rathdowne Street.

But, six weeks later, something fresh (and fleeting) is happening in the two-level site.

The hospitality heavyweights behind Epocha, Angie Giannakodakis and Guy Holder, have decided to reactivate the space until their lease is up at the end of the year, trialling a concept that pays homage to Giannakodakis’ Greek heritage, and her mum’s recipes.

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Called Taverna, after the casual restaurants serving local cuisine across Greece, it favours home-style cooking over Epocha’s upscale, broadly European offering. “The economic environment doesn’t [suit Epocha’s] style of dining,” says Giannakodakis. “So, I thought, what better way to get through this period than by going back to my roots?”

Cretan olive oil (“the best!” says Giannakodakis) is at the heart of the menu of familiar, nourishing dishes designed to share. The horta (seasonal greens) and keftethes (meatballs) are just like her mum’s. As is the moussaka, with “melt-in-your-mouth” eggplant and potato, and a unique mix of spices that Giannakodakis says sets it apart.

The interiors have been lightened and brightened to fit the Greek theme, now all crisp whites and blues, with stripped-back Baltic pine tables and rattan light fixtures.

The furnishings will be transplanted once the team find a permanent spot for Taverna. “We’re testing the waters to see what works and what doesn’t,” says Giannakodakis. “In eight weeks, we should have a new lease somewhere.”

Open Thu-Fri, 3pm-late; Sat-Sun, noon-late until December 22

49 Rathdowne Street, Carlton, ourtaverna.com