Not one Australian venue managed to secure a spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants announced overnight in Spain, reinforcing much-debated issues with a voting system that is seen to privilege northern hemisphere restaurants.

Last year, Australia was not represented on the 1-50 list, but got a surprise inclusion in the long-list of the top 100 restaurants when Melbourne hotspot Gimlet at Cavendish House, a relatively casual spot by World’s 50 Best standards, was named at No. 84.

This year, Peruvian restaurant Central located in the city of Lima was declared the best restaurant in the world, with praise for its innovative tasting menu reflecting the nation’s incredible biodiversity. Disfrutar in Barcelona and Diverxo in Madrid followed in second and third place, respectively.

The rest of the list was a predictable mix of starched and Michelin-starred establishments, cutting-edge degustation restaurants favoured by the jet set, and a smattering of venues in southern hemisphere cities such as Buenos Aires.

The rankings are decided by an academy of members throughout the world that includes journalists, chefs and “well-travelled gourmets”. Each member casts 10 votes for restaurants they’ve visited in the last 18 months.

A requirement that they allocate four votes to restaurants outside their home region is designed to remove any home-ground bias. But that system in fact puts far-flung countries like Australia and New Zealand at a disadvantage. Why would a London-based food critic travel for 24 hours to visit restaurants Down Under, when they can be in Tokyo in 13 hours or New York in eight?

Spanish institution Mugaritz celebrated its 18th consecutive inclusion in the worldwide ranking, while its chef-patron Andoni Luis Aduriz received the Icon Award.

New entries came from countries including Mexico, Colombia and United Arab Emirates.

The biggest climber, New York’s Atomix, rose 25 spots to No. 8, in a huge win for Korean dining and tiny owner-operated venues.

One-time Canberra wunderkind, Danny Yip, was featured at No. 50 with his Hong Kong restaurant, The Chairman, the closest thing to an Australian outing on the list.

Last year’s top restaurant, Geranium in Copenhagen, now enters the ‘Best of the Best’, a hall of fame for past No. 1 restaurants that also includes Noma, Eleven Madison Park and El Bulli.

The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 list and awards

1. Central, Lima

2. Disfrutar, Barcelona

3. Diverxo, Madrid

4. Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo, Spain

5. Alchemist, Copenhagen

6. Maido, Lima

7. Lido 84, Gardone Riviera, Italy

8. Atomix, New York City [Highest Climber]

9. Quintonil, Mexico City

10. Table by Bruno Verjus, Paris [Highest New Entry]

11. Trèsind Studio, Dubai

12. A Casa do Porco, Sao Paulo

13. Pujol, Mexico City

14. Odette, Singapore

15. Le Du, Bangkok

16. Reale, Castel di Sangro, Italy

17. Gaggan Anand, Bangkok

18. Steirereck, Vienna

19. Don Julio, Buenos Aires

20. Quique Dacosta, Dénia, Spain

21. Den, Tokyo

22. Elkano, Getaria, Spain

23. Kol, London

24. Septime, Paris

25. Belcanto, Lisbon

26. Schloss Schauenstein, Furstenau, Switzerland

27. Florilège, Tokyo

28. Kjolle, Lima

29. Boragó, Santiago

30. Frantzén, Stockholm

31. Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spain

32. Hiša Franko, Kobarid, Slovenia

33. El Chato, Bogota

34. Uliassi, Senigallia, Italy

35. Ikoyi, London

36. Plénitude, Paris

37. Sézanne, Tokyo

38. The Clove Club, London

39. The Jane, Antwerp

40. Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin

41. Le Calandre, Rubano, Italy

42. Piazza Duomo, Alba, Italy

43. Leo, Bogota

44. Le Bernardin, New York City

45. Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin

46. Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai

47. Mayta, Lima, Peru

48. La Grenouillėre, La Madeleine-Sous-Montreuil, France

49. Rosetta, Mexico City

50. The Chairman, Hong Kong

Art of Hospitality Award: Alchemist, Copenhagen

Best Sommelier: Miguel Ángel Millán (Diverxo, Madrid)

Best Pastry Chef: Pía Salazar (Nuema, Quito)

Sustainable Restaurant Award: Fyn, Cape Town

Previously announced awards:

One to Watch: Tatiana by Kwame Onwuachi (New York City)

Best Female Chef: Elena Reygadas (Rosetta, Mexico City)

Icon: Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz, San Sebastian, Spain)

Champions of Change: Nora Fitzgerald Belahcen (Amal Centre, Marrakech, Morraco); Damián Diaz and Othón Nolasco (No Us Without You LA, Los Angeles)