As busy as Newmarket train station opposite, Laksa King is loved for its good old-fashioned value and good, re-fashioned fitout. Slung bulbs, muralled walls and a clever clear-louvred partition divide and conquer the cavernous space. The menu is big, too, but partitioned into neat categories: poultry (charry chicken satay), stir-fried noodles (glistening char kwai teow) and all-important laksa (there are 10 types, from the classic ‘combination’ to fish-head). While you may not genuflect for the food alone, you might for the overall experience, which includes great service and deals (families scoff and go by 6.30pm and pay 10 per cent less): Your Majesty.