In a tiny shack next to a petrol station you’ll find some of the tastiest adana kebabs around. This is a one-man show performed by a chef adept at smoking and charring meat. Minced lamb is expertly seasoned then mounted on wide metal tines and placed directly over coals.

Order your adana as a plate, with fragrant biryani rice cooked in lamb stock, or rolled tightly in lavash with salty pickled cucumbers and mixed vegetables. Either way, it’d be remiss of you not to add house chilli sauce, made from red and green varieties blistered over flames then blitzed with garlic and vinegar.

Everything comes in takeaway containers, and the setting and outdoor furniture ain’t flash. But who needs silver service when engrossed in the harmony of a well-thought-out shish plate?