Like all great peasant dishes, congee strikes a profound balance between comfort and nourishment. If you’re in need of either, put this place on your list.

The minimalist space is light-filled, furnished with wooden stools and narrow tables, and soundtracked by Chinese pop. Of the 33 congees on the menu, the first is the most classic. It’s made with subtly funky preserved egg and minced pork seasoned so precisely it pushes the soup into sublime territory.

A dunkable pastry baton of light, crunchy youtiao functions as an edible utensil, and those looking to boost their chi can look to clear broths with ingredients said to have medicinal properties, such as agrocybe, cordyceps and dictyophora.

But a serve of steamed dumplings, salted egg-yolk custard buns or fried pumpkin pancakes will just as reliably fortify your soul.