Isn’t it wonderful when a classic pub gets a facelift, but you can still see its old smile lines? With 175 runs on the board, the Petrel’s new owners swapped the Keno for pinot (although there’s still Carlton on tap).

Mains are from pub heartland but some entrees could be served at a city wine bar. Plump octopus is flame-licked and paired with tangy almond cream and pleasantly bitter shiso leaves. A caramelised shallot and white wine sauce lapping Portarlington mussels is bright yet rich, begging for hunks of charred sourdough. A belter of a gravy rides shotgun with beef bangers and mash, while a bright lemon-herb crumb elevates snapper and chips.

Vintage sports memorabilia covers the walls, and the beaut front bar is dog-friendly. Locals jostle for seats beside the freestanding fireplace in winter, ready to make a few smile lines of their own.

Must order: Chicken schnitties are hefty and lathered in garlic butter.

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