The yacht rock is free of charge, the sea breeze compliments of the chef. You’ll have to pay for the wine, but you’ll hardly regret it. Pluck a salty albarino from the vast wall of wines stacked with a canny edit of treasures from near and far. You’ll certainly want something for your mussel toast: a darling two-biter luxed with aioli and showered in snipped chives.

The first peas of spring sweeten the crisp skin and supple flesh of cockerel, while a sepia-toned mustard sauce coats every forkful with butter-tempered acids. A flood of warm chocolate lava lurks within the chocolate fondant; witness it rush forth at the touch of the teaspoon to meet a silken quenelle of creme fraiche semifreddo.

Like the ocean this wine bar overlooks, service can be choppy, but there’s class enough in the cooking to see you safely to shore.

Good to know: That wine wall doubles as a thoughtfully appointed bottle-o; grab a bottle for the Airbnb on the way out.

Good Food reviews are booked anonymously and paid independently. A restaurant can’t pay for a review or inclusion in the Good Food Guide.