Hardcore pho fans, this is not the place for you. Nam Giao doesn’t serve it – the specialty here is the central Vietnamese staple bun bo hue, an elegant combination of rice noodles, pork hock, fresh herbs and a long-simmered bone broth brightened with lemongrass and spicy-sweet shrimp paste. Heads up, traditionalists: you might have to request blood loaf, and spice is entry-level but can be intensified with chopped bird’s-eye chillies.

Chewy, crystal-skinned banh bot loc dumplings in broth with spring onion oil are beautiful to behold. Bun rieu, a robust soup, comes with slippery noodles and soft crab-and-pork dumplings.

Staff may be thin on the ground but multi-task at an elite level, packing takeaway orders and chatting with regulars as they go. A single-page menu in a light box along one wall means no choice paralysis. The only drawback is the 8pm closing time.