Comfort takes many forms, and dwaeji gukbap is one of them. Translating to “pork, soup, rice”, it’s the go-to of just five menu items at the equally compact Mr Lee’s Foods.

Order at the counter, help yourself to water, take a seat in the sparsely decorated dining room and wait for your steaming bowl to arrive. When it does, the broth is milky, clean and subtle, with wheat noodles, sliced pork, offal (if you like) and optional – but highly recommended – additions.

Taste as you go, seasoning from a spread of fermented shrimp, daikon kimchi, fermented bean paste and green chillies. There’s little guidance from staff, and you might not get the customisation right the first time, but once you get the hang of it you’ll be regularly drawn from across town just like everyone else.