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Marchesa

Small, busy and as harmonious as a barbershop quartet.

Dark chocolate budino pudding.
1 / 7Dark chocolate budino pudding.Bonnie Savage
Inside the lively 26-seat Italian bistro.
2 / 7Inside the lively 26-seat Italian bistro.Bonnie Savage
Hare raviolo.
3 / 7Hare raviolo.Bonnie Savage
Pork cutlet with braised cabbage and apple sauce.
4 / 7Pork cutlet with braised cabbage and apple sauce.Bonnie Savage
Vitello tonnato.
5 / 7Vitello tonnato.Bonnie Savage
The tiramisu involves three tipples.
6 / 7The tiramisu involves three tipples.Bonnie Savage
Roast pumpkin tortelloni.
7 / 7Roast pumpkin tortelloni.Bonnie Savage

14.5/20

Italian$$

For five years, this modest space was the beloved Spaghetti Bar. Then co-owner and chef Daniel Whelan joined forces with Daniel Saligari from Midnight Starling next door, flipping it into this peach and pistachio-toned charmer.

While Saligari maintains a happy hum among diners, Whelan cooks Italian food that’s peasant at heart but executed with finesse. Vitello tonnato is tweaked, with the veal roasted (not poached) and dressed with a luscious confit tuna mayonnaise and crisp capers.

A single large raviolo balloons with hare, pork and liver filling, a bold combination matched by puddles of cheesy sauce and a chianti reduction. Tiramisu sneaks in a cocktail’s worth of booze, including the herbal liqueur Strega, marsala and Galliano. This is food you’ll still be thinking about weeks later.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/marchesa-20241116-p5kr5f.html