Marchesa
Small, busy and as harmonious as a barbershop quartet.
14.5/20
Italian$$
For five years, this modest space was the beloved Spaghetti Bar. Then co-owner and chef Daniel Whelan joined forces with Daniel Saligari from Midnight Starling next door, flipping it into this peach and pistachio-toned charmer.
While Saligari maintains a happy hum among diners, Whelan cooks Italian food that’s peasant at heart but executed with finesse. Vitello tonnato is tweaked, with the veal roasted (not poached) and dressed with a luscious confit tuna mayonnaise and crisp capers.
A single large raviolo balloons with hare, pork and liver filling, a bold combination matched by puddles of cheesy sauce and a chianti reduction. Tiramisu sneaks in a cocktail’s worth of booze, including the herbal liqueur Strega, marsala and Galliano. This is food you’ll still be thinking about weeks later.
Continue this series
Central VictoriaUp next
Midnight Starling
Timeless food at a cosy address.
Mr Jones
Refined room alive with vibrant art and equatorial aromatics.
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Lake House
Forty years on, still a pinnacle of dining.
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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/marchesa-20241116-p5kr5f.html