Jinda isn’t the place for a quiet date. You’ll want to bring a group so you can try as many of the items on the substantial laminated menu as possible.

Your neighbours in this lantern-lit former factory may be occasionally rowdy, their tables strewn with Singha bottles, soft-shell crab in bright yellow curry and piles of smoke-kissed rice noodles.

But there’s familiar territory, too. Smoky moo ping pork skewers are a reliable snack, but don’t overlook pillowy “squish” cakes: fishcakes hiding tender slabs of squid. Crisp-skinned whole barramundi steals the show, offset by a salty-sour tumble of apple, red onion and cashews. Pandan crêpe cake is an electric-green slice of fun to cap it all off.

Wanting more? An expanded lunch menu presents regional Thai specials and street-food faves such as yen ta fo soup, packed with seafood and fermented tofu.