It’s a shop, a restaurant, a phenomenon. Foodle includes a premium butcher, point-and-pick live seafood, sushi counter, barbecue restaurant, bakery, dumpling factory, fresh produce section and laden grocery aisles.

You could spend hours here: eat freshly shucked oysters, choose mud crab from a tank and have it cooked on site, then do your shopping for the week.

By this point you’ll have built up an appetite for roast duck and dumplings (most of the latter are machine-made but they’re pretty good, if not especially delicate).

Food warmers are stacked with stir-fries and rice dishes for eating in the canteen-style dining hall. Pineapple fried rice is a satisfying, generous version of the Thai street-food favourite, and barbecued meats are prepared in a drum oven calibrated for juicy meat and crisp skin.

The ambition – and one-stop convenience – is thrilling.