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The walls of this exuberant restaurant are decorated with colourful pop-art posters, and during summer large front windows open to the street. The long bar is dedicated almost completely to vodka: a pleasingly salty martini is made with pickle brine, and there’s a huge selection of flavoured vodkas you’ll drink by the shot.

Marinated herring with fennel and pink peppercorns makes for a fantastic couple of bites, as does pork and beef liver pâté with pickled tomato. There are five variations of pierogi, including boiled potato and cheese, and a mushroom sauerkraut version that’s pan-fried and served with celeriac and dill.

Of all the trends this restaurant is bucking, the rejection of the astronomical prices in mid-range restaurants is perhaps the most exciting.