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Danny Ko has been cooking Malaysian and Singaporean food professionally since the 1970s, so he knows a thing or two about wok hei. His char kwai teow is a one example: a hot tangle of flat noodles, springy fishcakes and pert bean shoots.

Other dishes are presented with similar confidence and little flourish. Soft, fluffy roti loves a swipe through satay sauce. Danny’s beef rendang is dark and rich with notes of toasted coconut, and fried rice is heady with shrimp paste and scattered with dried anchovies.

There’s an open kitchen, so you’ll see your meal in the making as you order at the counter. Plenty swing by Danny’s for takeaway or a quick bite but you can also order slowly and settle in, sipping pulled milk tea between sizzling bites.