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Mushroom is the star of the show at this light-filled and spacious restaurant, which is full of groups exploring the depth and breadth of Yunnan cuisine’s favourite ingredient.

A copper pot holds charred rice, nutty boletus mushroom, egg and sweet Yunnanese sausage. The clear and delicate broth of steam-pot chicken delivers extra nourishment via hits of goji berries, matsutake mushroom and chicken on the bone. Complement the shrooms with a heaped plate of cold braised pork ear, each textured slice cradling flakes of chilli crisp and beads of chilli oil. Or try steamed silken tofu, stirred into salted egg yolk sauce until it resembles molten cheese.

With help from staff, it’s easy to cover your table with blue-toned porcelain plates offering a mix of spicy, sour and earthy tastes. Bring a few buddies to best appreciate the feast, then finish with a cup of honeysuckle tea.