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Inside a 129-year-old South Yarra terrace, find requisite dips, calamari, saganaki and spanakopita, plus cheffier versions of owner Nik Pouloupatis (ex-Cutler and Co, Attica and Grossi Florentino)’s mum’s recipes.

The zucchini fritters known as kolokithokeftedes include potato and panko crumbs – crunchy on the outside, soft and gooey on the inside. Youvetsi, a slow-cooked dish of tomato and kritharaki (orzo), might come with fall-apart lamb shoulder one week and meltingly tender osso buco the next.

The drinks list draws from Greece, with xinomavro (a nebbiolo-like red wine) and agiorgitiko (a red from the Peloponnese region) plus ouzo mojitos and sours made with mastiha, a piney liqueur made from resin – perfect for sipping on the two-tiered terrace in summer.