During Saturday night peak hour here you’d be excused for thinking Ramadan had just ended. At tightly packed tables Islamic families are feasting at what must be one of Sydney’s few halal Thai restaurants (though non-observers can still enjoy a glass of wine with their pad Thai). Giant fresh spring rolls and a big bowl of massaman duck curry hint that flavour can sometimes be sacrificed in the name of volume, but all is forgiven with a whole fresh snapper, deep-fried and dressed with a chilli-hot coconut sauce. Join the furious dine-in or unrelenting takeaway trade and discover why foodies of all persuasions worship here.