Equally popular with visiting Pakistani cricket teams and pre-theatre punks and rockers, this determinedly unassuming eatery continues to serve up deceptively simple South Asian fare. The sizzling platter of tandoori meats is an ample starter, minced lamb seekh kebab particularly juicy. Dipping wholemeal potato and coriander-stuffed paratha into chicken haleem shows what over a thousand years of tradition can make: the mixture of chicken and dhals cooked together into a thick puree and garnished with ginger matchsticks beats the pants off modern fusion dishes. There's always a seasonal vegetable dish, perhaps sauteed bindhi (okra) and onion where umami meets caramel, and a masala fragrant with coriander and cumin.