Swallow Coffee Traders occupies tiny, sunny premises near Rockdale station and makes an outstanding, repeat, outstanding, espresso ($3.20).

Information about the beans, the latest roasting and the superbly creamy local milk that co-owners Jess Hol and Angus Nicol use hangs on the wall near the coffee machine. Nicol is a picture of care and concentration as he eases warm milk into a row of flat whites on the counter.

The breakfast menu, Saturdays only, is small but perfectly formed. We have eggs and bacon on sourdough ($12); and mushrooms, tomato, basil and brie on toast ($10). The produce is high quality, prepared with a light, expert touch. We love what we've ordered but still covet the little blueberry pancakes with sliced pear and maple syrup being enjoyed at the next table.

The muesli ($6) and the tempting cakes are also made on the premises. The lime and blueberry tart is superb.

Freshly made gourmet sandwiches - such as brie, sun-dried tomatoes and baby spinach - are available on weekdays.

Swallow Coffee Traders is a winner. Go there.