If you learn only one Polish phrase, make it 'na zdrowie'. Say it with gusto, throw back a shot, and repeat. This classic toast is one way to explore the extensive vodka list at this convivial restaurant, all folksy with cane-basket covered lights and sturdy timber tables. A gentler, rosy cheek-making option is mulled wine, warmed at the table over a candle. Food-wise, pole position (sorry!) goes to pierogi - Polish dumplings. Fried or boiled, there are four fillings to choose from, including potato and cheese topped with sour cream and fried onions. Also addictive is smalec, a rich lard-based spread with apple and onion, served with rye bread and pickled cucumber. Mains continue the rustic theme, from juicy deboned chicken legs with horseradish sauce, nutty buckwheat and sweet carrot-apple slaw, to white fish served with chunky, chewy kopytka (potato dumplings). Warm, crumbly baked cheesecake comes with blackcurrants and vanilla ice-cream, while smart service comes with a smile.