The winds of change have moved gently here, blowing away the starched tablecloths and ushering in a more casual vibe. The monumental fireplace, fresh flowers, gleaming glassware, starched white napkins and shining cutlery still feature, as does stellar service. Works by local artist Kiasmin Burrell adorn the walls, thick carpet muffles conversation and well-spaced tables ensure privacy. Chef Troy Rhoades-Brown's kitchen remains elegant, fine and clever. From frozen semillon and tiny herring fillet en croute to miniature macarons and salted caramel, every dish is a celebration. Expect perfectly boned quail from Nulkaba on pumpkin risotto with a soft-boiled quail egg, or rosy-centred, juniper berry-smoked Mandagery Creek venison, served with smoking juniper berries on the side for olfactory stimulation. Nitro tiramisu is a revelation, the sponge and mascarpone taken from solid to sensory by a cup of espresso coffee poured over it at the table, unlocking the tiramisu textures and flavours. BYO Wednesday to Thursday.