To get to Java - the tiny Randwick restaurant, not the large Indonesian island - book or risk disappointment. The terrific food and holiday-like mood encourages groups to linger, slowly savouring each dish. First-timers should consider nasi rames, a tasting plate that includes flavourful gado-gado and rendang sapi (fall-apart beef cooked incoconut). Smoky fish cutlets in banana leaves is another wise choice. Chilli side dishes such as sambal belado cost $1.50,but the complex tomato, lime leaf and chilli flavours are priceless. Es bumi hangus, a dessert of avocado, grass jelly, lychees, crushed ice and black sticky rice, is so tropically whacky it almost works.