Someone should re-brand this green and pleasant region the Southern Thai-lands. Bowral and Mittagong together boast more Thai restaurants than many inner-city Sydney 'burbs. Of course, not all Thai restaurants are created equal, and this one is special. Chef Jason Bailey, his wife Bongkoch 'Bee' Satongun and head chef Wathee 'Max' Kleethongchai are purists who believe we deserve subtle, layered Thai cooking and not a dumbed-down westernised stereotype. They're inspired by the cuisine of Thailand's royal court, but don't expect a royal salon; just neatly laid tables in a shopping arcade. Embrace the challenging but correct flavour harmonies in dishes such as kanom jeeb thai (springy pork dumplings), tom yum goong, and seu rong hai (crying tiger) served with papaya salad. Standouts include eggnet filled with blue swimmer crab, a fragrant, authentic lon (Thai relish) served with john dory, and a perfect steamed pandanus and lime-flavoured tapioca jelly. A hidden gem for true believers.