You'll smell it before you see it. That earthy, meaty, smoky, almost visceral smell of barbecue that hits you full force as soon as you're within 50 metres of the place. If you've been tasting the sudsy delights of the pubs of the inner west pre-dinner, this'll be the best news you've had all day.

But here's the, ah, rub. The chances of getting in straight away are about as slender as a picked clean pork rib. It's a queue for that 'cue.

This is the work of Anton Hughes and "Hillbilly" Wes Griffiths. You may remember the two from their time at Vic's Meat Market. Together, they're hell-bent on bringing the taste of Texas barbecue to Enmore. And Enmore has responded extremely enthusiastically. So enthusiastically, in fact, that at 6pm on a Saturday, the line stretches back to the theatre up the road.

It's amazing what you learn standing around on Enmore Road waiting for smoked meats. A doctor-in-residence recounts some excellent behind-the-scenes surgery stories, none of which can ever be printed within the pages of Good Food. And then there's the Uber X driver who joins the throng simply "because it was there". He didn't even know they sold barbecue. I hold his place while he checks on his car.

The idea here is they open till they're sold out. There's no reward without risk, and chances are if you miss out on the short rib, you can still get your hands on the brisket sandwich. That's a soft white roll, lots of shredded beef doused in house-made barbecue sauce and coleslaw.

But if I were you eating here for the first time (jealous), I'd load up a barbecue plate. There's the chopped pork, smoked till it's pull-apart tender, surprisingly juicy spiced chicken breast (it's not something I'd think to order normally, but it's a win), and pork ribs – which I could happily sit down and eat a whole rack of.

Hot links – spicy sausages, thickly sliced – are probably the weakest link for me but it's fierce competition on that plate. Especially when you take into account the sharp pickles, the tempering effects of a soothing mac and cheese and refreshing coleslaw. Oh, and the crunch from a big pile of crisps – don't forget those.

Drinks-wise, they've kept the Houston feeling alive by serving a few choice tinnies. Locally, there's the Tailgate IPA, hyper locally there's Young Henrys natural lager (the brewery is just across the road). Or stray further afield with a can of Rio Bravo or make like a Williamsburg local with a tin of Pabst Blue Ribbon.

It's official – the lid's been lifted off Enmore Road – it's well and truly cooked and the results are double-plus tasty.

THE LOWDOWN
Pro tip There are no reservations, and they close when they've sold out. Don't risk sadness. Go early, and go midweek
Try this The brisket sandwich is a real showstopper
Like this? Check out the barbecue styles at Vic's Meat Market and do a compare-and-contrast with their brisket sandwich. 50-60 Bank Street, Pyrmont, 02 8570 8570