The Molines name is as woven into the fabric of the Hunter Valley as are those of Tyrrell, McGuigan and Drayton. Since arriving in 1973, Robert and Sally Molines have run some of the area's finest eating houses. Their latest venture is perhaps their most charming yet. Situated in the appropriately named Mount View region, this indoor-outdoor restaurant is more balcony and terrace than dining room, with deliciously pastoral views of rolling hills and the vineyards of Tallavera Grove. The food has a distinctly French provincial accent, from crisp, tiny whitebait served with saffron aioli to a rack of lamb with bean cassoulet. Crumbed lambs' brains are served in a golden pool of garlicky butter, and the key word here is generosity, from a salad of sweet yabbies with witlof and hazelnuts to an individual lemon tart topped with soft clouds of meringue.