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This cosy restaurant attracts a broad church of customers for its gracious hospitality, low-key jazz soundtrack and short, no-filler menu.

First-generation Koreans are fans because owner Justin Shin is cooking his mother-in-law’s recipes and the soups are a cleantasting reminder of home. Local workers like the lunchtime prices. TikTokers come to film and eat the makguksu, featuring chilled buckwheat noodles slicked with perilla-seed oil.

Best of all, though, is the haejangguk or “hangover soup” of gorgeously rounded flavour built on long simmered beef bones. There’s also the spicy (but not that spicy) yukgaejang with beef brisket, leek, black mushroom, crunchy chive and prawn pan-fried pancakes, and sliced pork belly you can season with little curls of fermented shrimp.

Arrive around 11.30am for the best chance of a table on Saturdays (doors open at noon), otherwise the wait can be up to an hour.