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Where other restaurants have essential orders, Taste of Shunde has non negotiables.

First, roast goose, the skin burnished, the sauce sweet, richly guttural and scented with five-spice. Second? Steamed seafood. Pick Murray cod or a coral trout from the tanks and minutes later it’ll be ferried out on a plus-sized bamboo platter, silk-like fillets spread with green peppercorns on one side, chilli on the other, the remaining flesh coated in black bean and olive sauce and reassembled in the centre. On top are rows of pipis and prawns, primed to drag through chilli-flecked soy, while underneath ribbons of sheet noodles soak up the juices.

Multi-generational families make the seafood platter the table’s centrepiece and add more signatures from this district in coastal Guangdong: wagyu with sticky Shaoxing punch, say, or sweet and subtle cloud-like fried milk. Bring companions, bring your own and load up the lazy susan. (Also in Eastwood.)