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Arrive early, slip through the rows of tables and prepare to enjoy bold (and very hands-on) Vietnamese classics at this unassuming but stellar local.

Dishes come out fast and furious, and are devoured just as efficiently by tables packed with friends and families. Spring rolls – scorchingly hot and shatteringly crisp – are a must, while deep-fried quails feature delicate, gamey meat beneath crisp skin.

Steaming bowls of banh canh cha ca, with fish cakes, faintly sweet broth and a swirl of fat among slippery noodles are inhaled in no time, but it’s the sugar cane prawns, fluffy and finely minced, that take pride of place on most tables, set to be snipped up with kitchen shears and eaten with soup or vermicelli and herbs.

Phu Quoc isn’t a place to linger, but when John Street’s other wonders are just around the corner, why would you?