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Amuro’s door slides open to reveal another culture. Inspired by Japanese TV show Midnight Diner, the tiny, concrete-clad sliver of a place forges its own path through the Japanese food scene by making it personal.

Get chatting to Kei Tokiwa behind the counter as he mixes whisky highballs and blowtorches strawberry desserts, and he’ll take you through a tasting of his idiosyncratic sake selection.

Seating is along a counter or at a couple of small wooden tables, and with no reservations, it’s often a wait on the street before anything is free.

The small handwritten menu card might suggest a silken spiral of sliced Hokkaido scallop, or a deeply satisfying don of mahogany-glossed smoked eel over velvety omelette and rice. Just make sure you have the signature karaage chicken: the perfect pal to a glass of sake, poured to the brim.