Old milk bars repurposed as cafes aren’t uncommon in Melbourne (see Tyler’s in Preston and Matilda in the eastern suburbs). But it’s rare to find one run by the same family that once sold newspapers and bags of lollies there. Emil’s in Pascoe Vale South is the exception.

Brothers John and George El-Khoury have renovated the northern suburbs milk bar their parents ran for 34 years and the adjoining house where they grew up, transforming them into a cafe for 100 people that’s a vintage-lover’s dream.

Original leadlight windows, ceilings, picture rails and flooring have been united with new timber cabinetry, banquettes and a blue-and-white exterior that evokes the building’s history.

“Now people are dining in our old lounge room and our old bedrooms,” says George.

And not just anyone, either. Best-selling cookbook author and Good Food columnist Nagi Maehashi (aka RecipeTin Eats) visited at the weekend and was impressed enough to tell her 1.3 million Instagram followers all about it.

The menu is full of nods to the past, with an emphasis on Lebanese dishes that were common on the El-Khoury table decades ago.

Lamb kofta tacos are a spin on a DIY dinner that the children’s mother, Houda, often made, arranging homemade muhammara (capsicum-walnut dip), yoghurt, pickles and salad on the table for people to assemble their own. That’s how it comes at Emil’s, too.

Houda El-Khoury is still in the kitchen every day, making items such as knafeh (a sweet filo pastry and cheese dish) and sauces including toum. Her fattoush salad and falafel wraps are among a full cabinet of choices that change each day.

“Every meal in our cafe has an aspect of our background pretty much,” says John. “Even the eggs on toast.”

Those come scattered with dukkah and zaatar, while labne is folded through the smashed avocado for extra richness. Breakfast, which runs all day, also features Turkish eggs made with the spicy sausage sujuk, and a decadent eggs Benedict served with slow-cooked beef rib.

At lunchtime, you can also get poached salmon on spiced pilaf, grilled spatchcock with toum and burgers.

The name of the cafe is another family tribute: it’s that of George and John’s father.

John and George say they have some customers coming to the cafe who recognise them from their after-school shifts in the milk bar, where they started helping out at the age of eight.

“It’s great to be back where it all started,” George says.

Plans are under way to add a night menu from Thursday to Saturday.

Open Mon-Sat 7am-4pm, Sun 8am-4pm.

347 Reynard Street, Pascoe Vale South, emils.com.au