“We could try really hard to not label it a wine bar. But I think that’s how people are going to use it, and that’s our expertise,” says Josh Begbie, the former Bar Liberty manager who’s just opened his first venue, Brico, in Carlton North.

Melbourne is swimming in wine bars. But there are those that use the label indiscriminately, and then there’s Brico.

Its owners met working in some of East London’s most influential wine bars: Phil Bracey co-owned P.Franco and its offshoots, Robyn Nethercote was front-of-house at The Quality Chop House, Begbie was at Brawn. Fellow owner Tegan Hendel does design work for food and drink businesses. Chef Simon Ball-Smith worked at Bright, sister restaurant to P.Franco, alongside Bracey.

As cornerstones of the organic, biodynamic and natural wine movements in London, these venues attracted a who’s who of visiting winemakers and chefs from across Europe and the world.

Some of that spirit – and those enviable connections – are on display at Brico, which opened on January 4.

Wines are drawn from Gippsland to Portugal and go beyond the usual roster of labels, with the main criteria being good grapes that are responsibly farmed. Examples from the current list include South Australia’s Manon, Nino Barraco from Sicily and Benjamin Taillandier from France.

Ball-Smith (ex-Moon Under Water, Carlton Wine Room and Hobart’s Franklin) takes a similar approach in the kitchen, paying attention to provenance and sourcing from local farms to use produce that’s in peak condition.

Expect European classics such as mussels escabeche served on toast with aioli, panzanella salad, or grilled whole flounder with brown butter. There’s also panisse (French chickpea fritters) with sage and parmesan, and pipis simmered in sherry with salty jamon.

“I don’t think you’ll find many unfamiliar combos on the plate,” says Bebgie. “But [Simon’s] letting good produce elevate these, rather than adding something quirky.”

Moving into the corner site that was previously Little Andorra (and, long ago, Tansy’s), the team didn’t want to mess too much with the 19th-century building’s bones. But there’s a brighter dining room, new timber booths, white cafe curtains (made by Bracey’s partner Hendel) and a light colour scheme that will soon play backdrop to brightly coloured Laminex tables that are en route.

Upstairs, one of two private dining rooms will be converted into a wine cellar and a residence will be added for visiting chefs or winemakers, bringing some of that P.Franco/Bright/Brawn spirit to Carlton North.

Open Wed-Sat 5pm-late, Sun 2pm-6pm.

555 Nicholson Street, Carlton North, 03 9191 7990, bricomelbourne.com