Marios set the coffee rules when it opened 26 years ago: no skim milk, no decaf, no questions. But the Brunswick Street icon recently began offering soy milk. Has it sold out? While there are undoubtedly better espressos in Melbourne - the traditional Italian brews ($3.50) can taste incongruously commercial these days - that's not why the legend endures. The waistcoated staff have a special glint in their eyes, the walls bulge with gig posters, and all-day breakfasts and authentic pasta dishes are consistently delicious. Marios, don't go changing.