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France-Soir’s ‘splendid’ bar is here at last. But you have to do something unusual to get inside

South Yarra’s famed French restaurant has expanded next door to open one of the most anticipated bars of the year.

Tomas Telegramma
Tomas Telegramma

It’s been nearly 40 years since French restaurant France-Soir opened in South Yarra, so its status as a Melbourne institution was cemented long before the smartphone era.

In a way, its long-awaited sibling bar, Le Splendide – which has stealthily opened in the neighbouring space on Toorak Road – harks back to those glory days. Upon entry, you’re asked to place a pink heart-shaped sticker squarely over your phone camera.

“It’s not about secrecy,” owner Jean-Paul Prunetti tells Good Food. “We’ve seen a few places doing it overseas … It’s just a great way for people to get away from their phones for an hour or so, and most people have been very happy with it so far.”

Le Splendide’s zinc bar was made to order in France.
Le Splendide’s zinc bar was made to order in France.Simon Schluter

Prunetti has been ruminating on the idea of opening a bar next door to the restaurant since he first inspected the site 15 years ago. But it wasn’t until 2021 that he finally took over the former bike shop.

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Since then, it’s been a slow but steady process to bring it to life, coincidentally, at a time when several other fancy restaurants have added more freewheeling bars next door, perfectly positioned for convenient pre- or post-dinner drinks. Or a dedicated visit.

“In a way, it was a natural progression,” says Prunetti. “But it’s also something we’re very excited about.”

Staff members such as Matthew Greeff are kitted out in salmon-coloured jackets.
Staff members such as Matthew Greeff are kitted out in salmon-coloured jackets.Simon Schluter

Already, Le Splendide (“the splendid” in French) exudes an effortless elegance, with its ornately moulded zinc bar top, made in Paris; walls clad with tanned timber panelling; and staff – many rotating in from France-Soir – in smart salmon-coloured jackets.

And while the bar is a similar size to the restaurant, it will seat no more than 40 people. “We want it to be less hustle and bustle in here,” says Prunetti. “We don’t want to jam people in.”

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Where France-Soir goes big on wines by the bottle, listing more than 2000, Le Splendide has upped the by-the-glass ante, with as many as 50 options. French is the focus, from Loire Valley chenin blancs to drops with a natural edge, from producers such as Rémi Dufaitre.

Also find Kronenbourg beer on tap and mostly classic cocktails (“dry – and French – martinis have been popular,” Prunetti says), as well as a few daily specials.

France-Soir’s signature beef tartare has been scaled down for Le Splendide.
France-Soir’s signature beef tartare has been scaled down for Le Splendide.Simon Schluter

“There’s no kitchen,” adds Prunetti. The menu is strictly finger food assembled by the bartenders. France-Soir stalwarts such as salmon gravlax and beef tartare have been scaled down, and will be served alongside other typically French snacks such as house-made duck rillettes, and splashier options like Russian caviar.

Open Mon-Sat 5pm-1am

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Tomas TelegrammaTomas Telegramma is a food, drinks and culture writer.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/france-soir-s-splendid-bar-is-here-at-last-but-you-have-to-do-something-unusual-to-get-inside-20241025-p5klbw.html