NewsBite

Advertisement

First look: Meet Juniper, the new South Melbourne cafe from the team behind hugely popular Florian

Smaller, more geared towards takeaway, but no less ambitious than Carlton North’s cult cafe Florian - meet hot new southside cafe, Juniper.

Emma Breheny
Emma Breheny

Following up a debut like Florian, the Rathdowne Street cafe that’s easiest to identify by the throng of people out the front, is a tough ask. But Dom Gattermayr and Rose Richards are giving it their all with their second cafe Juniper in South Melbourne.

Co-owner Dom Gattermayr is excited to have access to South Melbourne Market’s produce with her second cafe.
Co-owner Dom Gattermayr is excited to have access to South Melbourne Market’s produce with her second cafe.Simon Schluter

Despite being smaller and geared to takeaway, Juniper, which opened on June 27, is no less ambitious than its chic older sibling.

“The idea is to have a market eatery or market canteen,” says Gattermayr.

Chef Emily Grant (who’s come from Florian) is exploiting the cafe’s proximity to South Melbourne Market, offering a vibrant salad line-up that changes weekly and buying chickens each morning, which she roasts for rolls filled with salsa verde and leaves.

Advertisement

A large cabinet greets people, brimming with sandwiches and three different salads, all of which play nicely together. This week it’s miso-roasted potatoes with Japanese turnip, freekeh and herb with barberries, and celery with celeriac, apple and persimmon in a buttermilk dressing.

The market plate is a rotating line-up of seasonal pickles and the best market goodies.
The market plate is a rotating line-up of seasonal pickles and the best market goodies.Simon Schluter

Baguettes filled with ham, cheddar and kasundi or broccoli and stracciatella baguette join the chicken rolls and other sandwiches.

The team are baking their own focaccia, to serve alongside soups such as French lentil or Polish mushroom.

There are only 24 seats inside, but if you nab one you might order trout cured in juniper-berry, an update on a Florian signature, or the market breakfast plate, a seasonal line-up of pickles, cheese, meat and bread. Porridge and a handful of other favourites from the north-side cafe will also jump across the Yarra.

Advertisement

Tucked down a laneway off Coventry Street, the cafe is defined by a long wooden bar and mirrors along the opposite wall, with dusty blue, red and yellow adding pops of colour.

Gattermayr, who grew up in South Melbourne, says the two cafes make a perfect pair. “Florian is on the cusp of the city, it’s suburban and green and leafy, and Coventry Street [where Juniper is] is similar.”

Open daily 8am-3pm.

Rear, 269 Coventry Street, South Melbourne, floriancarlton.com.au

Continue this series

The beautiful south: 20 great new restaurants, bars and cafes situated south of the river
Up next
Prawn Nerano pizza is named after a town in Campania and its eponymous zucchini-heavy pasta dish

Rossi opens where Ladro TAP once stood in Prahran – and there’s pizza

If you thought Ladro’s closure last year had left a pizza-sized hole in Prahran, say hello to Rossi.

Spanakopita at Hellenic House Project in Highett.

The critic’s verdict on George Calombaris’ new restaurant, Hellenic House Project

Whatever your feelings about the celebrity chef, there’s no doubting he’s an excellent cook.

Previous
Grazia has struck a chord with Glen Iris locals.

‘Rammed from open to close’: Glen Iris locals flock to new Italian restaurant Grazia - but is it worth the hype?

It seems that the suburb really, really wanted a modern Italian joint, with every single one of its 100 seats filling night after night.

See all stories

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up
Emma BrehenyEmma BrehenyEmma is Good Food's Melbourne-based reporter and co-editor of The Age Good Food Guide 2024.

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement

Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/goodfood/melbourne-eating-out/first-look-meet-juniper-the-new-south-melbourne-cafe-from-the-team-behind-hugely-popular-florian-20230626-p5djen.html