TAB betting and frozen food are out; family dinners in the glow of the fireplace are in at The Petrel Hotel, a historic pub in one of Geelong’s up-and-coming neighbourhoods that has just been rebooted.

The changes have been gradual, starting in late 2022 with a new menu from well-regarded local chef Jackson Fort (now at Bistrot Plume). Now, a whole new look, kitchen and head chef are in place, with a little DNA from some of Melbourne’s most popular pubs.

Co-owner Ollie Smith, who grew up in Geelong and bought The Petrel with schoolmate Nathan Hawkins, is also one of the partners in Fitzroy North’s Royal Oak and The Sporting Club Hotel in Brunswick. The recent revival of those pubs with a heavy dose of old soul is an approach that has become a signature for the group.

The Petrel shows all the hallmarks, with a drinks list focused on local and craft producers, a menu of pub favourites mixed with modern staples, and a fit-out that’s warm and rich in character.

“The brief was to restore the old pub back to its glory,” says Smith, who engaged Studio Co & Co, the same interiors firm that worked on The Sporting Club.

Closing the doors in November, the team got to work adding timber wainscoting throughout, a tiled backbar, leather bar stools and banquettes, paisley carpets and a freestanding fireplace in the dining room.

The walls are filled with old sporting memorabilia and the honour boards of the local anglers club and pool club.

Molly Fuge, a former sous chef at the Royal Oak who’s also done time at MoVida and Trader House restaurants, is heading up the kitchen. She’s pushed the menu onto fresh and vibrant Mediterranean ground while not straying too far from pub heartland.

There’s a spiced pumpkin, labneh and couscous salad for vegetarian diners, chicken schnitzel with a large scoop of garlic butter, a Petrel cheeseburger, and snapper in a lemon and parsley crumb served with chips and salad leaves.

“Her eye for detail and quality is fantastic,” says Smith. “She hunts down ingredients, and has already built relationships with the local suppliers.”

A kids menu has favourites like schnitzel for $15 with a bowl of vegetables on the side. Dessert is a scoop of ice cream with either a dusting of sprinkles or Milo, just like Smith had when he was growing up.

He says the Geelong pub scene has “been screaming for a food-focused pub” and is happy to see young families that live nearby no longer walking past but walking in for bowls of chips that might turn into dinner.

Open Mon-Thu 11am-11pm with food from 4pm, Fri-Sun 11am-late with food from noon.

81 Pakington Street, Geelong West, petrelhotel.com