Is it possible to be fashionably early? Because that's the only way to roll at this rowdy diner, which is chockers at virtually every sitting. Awaiting the fleet of foot is a sparky array of pan-Asian faves: maybe braised wagyu wokked with bittersweet gai laan and rolled rice noodles; plump pork and crab cakes parcelled in oakleaf lettuce accompanied by a nam prik sauce piqued with salty duck egg; or sour whitebait curry teamed with green papaya. And the monochromatic surrounds? This former warehouse feels charged with foodie fandom, which doesn't look like abating anytime soon.