Moving an entire brewery in less than two weeks, including carefully driving seven semi-trailer loads of beer at 30 km/h, is nothing compared to the hurdles that craft brewer La Sirene has cleared in the last year.

When its Alphington home of 12 years was declared unsafe last December due to asbestos, La Sirene was suddenly locked out of its brewery and newly opened bar, losing at least $380,000 over a decision that was later overruled.

Their lease was up in April though, and owners Costa and Eva Nikias spent months searching for the right place to brew their wild fermented beers, which rely on the environment (previously Darebin Parklands) for naturally occurring yeasts.

A former factory and warehouse in Reservoir turned out to be perfect. Sandwiched between Merri Creek, Edwardes Lake and Edgars Creek, the brewery is in a prime position to capture wild yeasts. Then there’s the neighbourhood, which Costa has fallen for.

“It’s a delight to come to an area that’s quite established but also quite inclusive,” he says.

Last month, they re-opened Bar La Sirene. It’s a brewery bar but offers much more than beer. Cocktails, a cheese cabinet, croque-monsieurs, and jamon Iberico sliced to order have been embraced by locals.

Most of the menu is inspired by Spain, Portugal and Italy. Clams simmered in white wine and garlic and served with Wild Life sourdough join grilled octopus with romesco, albondigas (Spanish meatballs), and giant white beans with herb vinaigrette.

A Portuguese steak sandwich – known as a prego – stars rare-cooked Scotch fillet with capsicum relish. It makes a great match with the first Reservoir release, Saison du Lac, according to Costa.

Broadening perceptions of pairing food with craft beer is a passion for Costa, who used to work in wine. The cheese cabinet is there so that people can see what young manchego tastes like with a wild saison, for example.

Fourteen taps of beer and 30-plus bottles of vintage and rare releases join boutique Victorian wines from William Downie and Mac Forbes, plus cocktails that use beer in surprising ways. The Citray Gin Spritz spikes a gin and tonic with a citrus-based sour beer, for example.

The earthy, barrel-lined space under sawtooth ceilings has capacity for 70 people and an enclosed courtyard takes a further 70, plus four-legged friends on leads. A coolship − an open tank used to brew wild ales via spontaneous fermentation − holds pride of place behind the indoor bar, a reminder that this brewery does things a little differently.

Bar La Sirene open Fri 5pm-10pm, Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-6pm

277 Edwardes Street, Reservoir, lasirene.com.au