“It’s definitely a unique space. I can’t say I know anywhere quite like it,” says chef Joel Alderdice, talking about his restaurant Emerald City.

That might be the understatement of the year. Alderdice’s debut is the size of some other restaurants’ wine cellars and hidden behind a green velvet curtain at the back of a whisky bar in Healesville.

Named after the mythical destination of The Wizard of Oz, just four diners at a time get to sit under a pendant light made of 240 panels of green glass while resting their elbows on a piece of centuries-old Tasmanian myrtle timber, which acts as both dining table and bar.

“Once you pull that curtain back, you’ll be like: what the hell is this space?” says Alderdice.

The chef, who just left hatted TarraWarra Estate, dreamed up the project with his landlords Brendan and Kate Cavanagh, owners of Cavanagh’s Whisky and Alehouse, who also asked Alderdice to handle snacks at the front of their venue.

At the back, he’ll be cooking tasting menus for just eight guests each day (12 on weekends), with no additional chefs and no waiters. Diners who want privacy need not apply.

“Once you pull that curtain back, you’ll be like: what the hell is this space?”

Joel Alderdice

But with the intimate size comes a more tailored experience. Although there are matched drinks, if someone prefers beer to wine, Alderdice will pick something especially for that course.

The first bite of his 12-dish menu ($175) is puffed sorghum tossed through Yarra Valley maker Stone & Crow’s butter. It’s a play on popcorn, a nod to the escapism of the tiny curtained-off space.

Then, a raft of snacks arrives, perhaps devilled eggs or a vegan riff on Thailand’s ma hor (pineapple with pork, prawn and shallots).

His signature “rainbow” rainbow trout from TarraWarra has been remodelled to proportions that fit its new home: trout rillettes instead of a fillet, but with garnishes that are just as technicoloured.

“It’s all these balanced bites that are really exciting. I really like eating that way, with lots of punchy flavours,” says Alderdice.

Larger courses include tempura mushrooms using the latest delivery of fantastic funghi from nearby growers Unearthed Co. Mushrooms, and pork jowl that’s cured, set, and then grilled over a hibachi. Alderdice cooks solely on that and an induction cooktop.

Emerald City is part of a growing number of scaled-down restaurants, such as Chae, Greasy Zoes and Matsu, that seat fewer than a dozen guests as owners seek work-life balance, sidestep staff shortages, and pursue better margins.

Alderdice says it’s a smarter way of using spaces to their maximum potential, and reckons more dual-purpose venues like his will come.

Until then, follow the yellow brick road to Healesville.

Open Sat-Sun 1pm, Wed-Sun 6pm & 8pm

207 Maroondah Highway, Healesville, emeraldcityhealesville.com