From morning until night, Baby delivers pre-work espresso, lunchtime panini, and pizza, pasta and wine once the day is done. This knack for pleasing all comers adds buzz to the high-decibel dining room, a Scandi-chic space of blondwood banquettes and bare tables. The relaxed Italian fare is best shared. Start with salumi, milky mozzarella and crunchy-oozy arancini. For mains, order plates of plump gnocchi in a sage-flecked pumpkin sauce, and charry pizzas strewn with pork sausage or prosciutto. Affordable carafes of wine and desserts of marsala-sloshed tiramisu or silky creme caramel provide plenty of reasons to linger.