Coorparoo’s Maude hits sweet spot during COVID

Opening an eatery during a pandemic takes some serious courage, but that’s what the owners of this southside cafe have done – and the risk seems to be paying off.

As more Queenslanders use COVID as a reason to work from home rather than return to the office, suburban cafes are reaping the benefits.

From the mid-morning coffee pick-me-up to the 3.30-itis snack run, neighbourhood eateries are proving a godsend.

At the end of October last year, husband and wife team Brandon and Caity Hemmings took advantage of the trend for eating local, launching their first cafe, Maude, in Coorparoo, in Brisbane’s inner south.

The interior at Maude in Coorparoo boasts a gallery wall of floral art. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

The split-level venue is equal parts youthful and modern and mature and homely — catering to the area’s broad demographic — with a wall of botanical-inspired artwork hanging above a soft, pillow-topped banquette; while, opposite, an on-trend, peach-hued neon sign of the cafe's moniker glows against a white wall behind the coffee machine.

There’s footpath dining too, but the friendly young waiter who greets us at the door suggests we take advantage of the airconditioning inside.

Maude serves coffee from Brisbane’s Wolff Roasters. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

This helpful attitude is displayed by all the front-of-house staff, the only thing letting the service down is the unsynchronised kitchen. But more on that later.

Like its fit-out, Maude’s menu is a little bit old-school, a little bit new. Of a morning, diners can expect everything from sardines on toast and pancakes to a spiced falafel stack or broccoli fritters; while lunch delivers a handful of entrees and bigger dishes like a pork belly burger, crab cakes on labneh or crispy skin salmon. An octopus entree ($14) stars a single, fat tentacle about the length of a hand on a splodge of cauliflower puree, coriander salsa and paprika vinaigrette — the liquids bleeding together like the paint on a Jackson Pollock artwork. The look is more tortured amateur than adept artist, but the squid couldn’t be more tender and the muddle of sauces brings balance and acidity.

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The popular buttermilk fried chicken burger ($20) slaps a hunk of crispy bird between a soft brioche bun with just-melted cheese, aioli, bacon and lettuce. All that’s missing is a few extra gherkins to give more acid relief from the fatty chook and sweet bun.

Maude offers a range of burgers including a pulled pork version. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

The lunch menu may be a simple affair but the kitchen struggles to find its timing on our visit, with tables around us experiencing delays between each diner receiving their meal. It’s only a minor pause, but when you’re hungry and have to wait for the person next to you to receive their food, it can feel like an eternity.

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Coffee comes from Brisbane’s Wolff Roasters and is very well made with milk, but it’s the sparkling drinks served in huge glass tumblers that are being ordered in bulk. Expect myriad flavours such as Buderim ginger and mint, grapefruit and rosemary, and green apple and guava. Alternatively, a butterscotch and banana thick shake delivers salty caramel goodness in spades, or there are yoghurt smoothies, fresh pressed juices and ice drinks like a bombay chai or sweet milk tea.

Maude is a pleasant little suburban cafe where good coffee and smiling staff make it worth leaving the house for.

MAUDE

16 Eva St, Coorparoo

0492 185 246

maude.restaurant

Daily 6am-4pm

VERDICT – Scores out of 5

Food 3

Ambience 3

Service 3

Value 3

Overall 3