$215 fish, $85 lamb: new Paddington restaurant wows, but at a cost
You’ll need deep pockets if you want to indulge at this new Brisbane restaurant, where individual dishes can cost a small fortune, but there’s a way to slightly soften the blow to your hip pocket.
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A piece of fish for $215. $85 for a main of lamb. $16 for a slice of focaccia. We may be in a cost of living crisis, but it seems somebody has forgotten to alert Dario Manca, owner of new restaurant Attimi in Brisbane’s Paddington.
The Italian-born chef (ex-Rosmarino and Za Za Ta, Fortitude Valley) has just launched his first restaurant in the space once occupied by Montrachet before it moved to Bowen Hills, and more recently the now-closed NOTA.
The history of the heritage-listed tenancy has been retained with exposed brick walls and polished timber floors on show, while the comfortable tan leather chairs appear well-worn to match the old worldly aesthetic. Bringing the drama to the decor are wine displays including a wine arbour at the entry, all housing the venue’s 100-bottle, Italian-leaning global collection.
But what’s sure to capture the attention of guests more than the fit-out are those prices.
The 28-seater has a focus on degustations, with an eight-course ($148pp) or 12-course ($198pp) option available, with a contemporary regional Italian focus. That could mean confit garlic and goat’s cheese tart; fish crisps with white sardines or a rabbit pasta. There are wine pairings available too, from $128pp to $178pp.
The restaurant is degustation only on Friday and Saturday nights, while an a la carte menu highlighting many of the degustation dishes operates for dinner Tuesdays to Thursdays, as well as at lunch on Fridays and Saturdays.
While the degustation menu is fairly priced compared to others around town, the costings of the a la carte has me befuddled. There are three entrees ranging from $28-$42, three pastas ($38-$44) and three mains, with two portion size options for each, such as a charcoal coral trout at $110 for 250g or $215 for 500g.
We are the only people in the restaurant on our visit having the a la carte menu, and it’s no wonder when a single main can cost $110, while you can have seven more courses for just $38 extra. And if it’s the 300g Stone Axe sirloin you choose for a main at $165, you are forking out $17 more than you would have for the eight-course degustation that includes the same piece of beef (presumably smaller).
We kick off with two snacks: the “ultimate mushroom arancino” ($10) and the cecina waffle ($12). The former has the crumbed risotto formed into the shape of a sliced mushroom using bespoke moulds. The profile allows the edges to become extra crispy and ensures the centre isn’t stodgy, making it superior to many arancino. Meanwhile, the latter is a tasty enough morsel but would perhaps benefit from something pickled or tart alongside the prosciutto and labneh.
Mediterranean octopus ($42) sits with the entrees but is a similar size to the mains, with a plump, heavily charred tentacle draped in a blanket of blow-torched, aggressively seasoned pork fat, alongside smoked labneh and balsamic vinegar. It’s a dish that needs every element on the plate to come together in the one mouthful to work at its best.
The prawn-filled cappelletti ($42) has the potential to be a winner, but my striped pasta parcels aren’t cooked properly and the bisque is too potent. Making way for the White Pyrenees lamb backstrap to claim dish of the day – though at $85 for an average-sized main portion, it would, perhaps, want to. Served pink and tender and cut into four hefty slices, it sits on a creamy parsnip puree complemented with red wine jus and a sprinkling of a coffee and chocolate powder which adds dimension.
Prices remain high for dessert with eight ice creams and sorbets from $8-$10 a scoop, while the signature dessert – a spin-off of Ferrero Rocher – comes in at $25. Our charming, highly knowledgeable waitress, convinces us to order tiramisu ice cream alongside the Rocher – a must to cut through the rocher’s richness.
Manca is a chef with talent but the pricing may lose potential diners. My advice, skip the
a la carte and dine degustation as this is where the value and skill are perhaps best on show.
ATTIMI
224 Given Tce, Paddington
Open
Tue-Thu dinner
Fri-Sat lunch and dinner
Must try
White Pyrenees lamb backstrap
Verdict – Scores out of 5
Food 3.5
Ambience 3.5
Service 4.5
Value 2.5
Overall 3.5
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