One of the world’s greatest sauces is something you may not have heard of

The dish

Leche de tigre, Peru

Snapper ceviche with leche de tigre at Morena, Sydney.Credit: Edwina Pickles

Plate up

It’s not often we dedicate this entire column to a sauce. Anyway, today we are talking just a simple dressing, little more than a component rather than an entire dish, yet it’s one of the true greats – and one you may not have even heard of. Leche de tigre is a Peruvian sauce with a name that means “tiger’s milk”, which hints at its omnipresent heat.

Leche de tigre is a deceptively complex mix of raw white fish, fish stock, lime juice, onion, garlic, celery, ginger, coriander, salt, and then one of either aji limo, a spicy Peruvian chilli, or aji amarillo, a slightly less aggressive pepper. These ingredients are added to a blender with water and ice cubes, thoroughly blended, then strained.

First serve

There’s evidence that the Moche people, who inhabited Peru’s Pacific coast from the 2nd century AD to the 8th, consumed raw fish with ground chillies. However, it wasn’t until Christopher Columbus arrived in 1492 that citrus was introduced to the region, and the first ceviches were prepared.

This is how leche de tigre came about – it was the name given to the juice left over after eating ceviche. These leftovers became so popular that within the past 100 years leche de tigre has become a specialty of its own, with restaurants beginning to serve it solo.

Order there

You’ll find a seriously good leche de tigre (as well as tasty variations with black clams and sea urchin roe) at Canta Rana, in the Barranco neighbourhood of Lima (cantarana.pe).

Order here

In Sydney, the excellent snapper ceviche at Morena in the CBD is served with leche de tigre (morenarestaurant.com.au, read Good Food’s review here). In Melbourne, the oysters at Pastuso are served with leche de tigre, and they’re spectacular (pastuso.com.au).

One more thing

Here’s the kicker: leche de tigre isn’t just a sauce – it’s also a drink. It’s often served in Peru as a shot or even a long drink to sip as you eat your ceviche; it’s also the basis for a range of cocktails, including the Hair of the Tiger: leche de tigre with tequila and hot sauce.