Twenty things that will surprise first-time visitors to Brisbane

You don’t even have to be a first-time visitor to be surprised by Brisbane. If you haven’t visited in five years, things have changed. If you haven’t visited in 10 years, things have really changed.

For those who are calling into the Queensland capital for the first time, meanwhile, there’s plenty that is going to come as a shock.

It’s come of age … finally

I grew up in Brisbane, so I can say this. For the longest time we used to trumpet to the rest of Australia: “Brisbane has come of age! We’re a thriving, creative, cosmopolitan city now!” All the while suspecting that that wasn’t really true. Now, however, it is. Brisbane really has come of age. This is a thriving, creative, cosmopolitan city with a whole lot going for it – not least a down-to-earth attitude that you can’t help but be charmed by.

There’s a beach (but not a real one)

Streets Beach: This manmade lagoon in the centre of the city is where locals come to cool off.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Brisbane, famously, is the coastal capital without a beach – except that’s not strictly true. In South Bank, just across the river from the CBD, you’ll find Streets Beach, a large lagoon with a (man-made) sandy shore. It’s an ideal place for families to have a paddle and escape the heat. There are real beaches, too – at Sandgate, Redcliffe and Wynnum – and surf beaches on nearby Bribie, Moreton and North Stradbroke islands.

Public transport is a tourism experience

No need to splash out on a fancy river cruise when you’re in Brisbane – just catch public transport and you’ve seen the best of it. The CityCat is a ferry service that runs along Brisbane River from Hamilton in the east to St Lucia in the west, calling past riverside highlights such as New Farm, Kangaroo Point, the CBD and the West End.

The Brisbane River is lovely

A kayak tour is one of many scenic ways to enjoy the Brisbane River.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Here’s another thing no one tells you about Brisbane: the river is lovely. It might not rival Sydney Harbour for physical beauty, but there are plenty of ways to enjoy it. You can take a cruise (CityCat or otherwise), go kayaking, walk its boardwalks, or just sit in New Farm Park and watch the boats go by.

You can go rock climbing in the city

Find us another city in the world where you can scale actual cliffs with views of the CBD. The Kangaroo Point cliffs are 18-metre-high rock walls on the riverbank opposite downtown Brisbane, with climbing and abseiling options for people of all levels of experience.

The craft beer scene is buzzing

Sea Legs in Kangaroo Point is among the best urban breweries in the city.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Brisbane is jam-packed with breweries, with taphouses everywhere churning out full rosters of IPAs, XPAs, lagers and seasonal brews. Some of the best include Sea Legs in Kangaroo Point, Soapbox Beer in Fortitude Valley, Range in Newstead, and Catchment in West End.

You need to get out of the CBD

Though plenty of accommodation options are CBD-based, there’s far more to Brisbane than the downtown area. Be sure to get to Fortitude Valley and New Farm for upmarket eateries and relaxed vibes, West End for alternative culture, Paddington for suburban charm, Kangaroo Point for riverside fun, and Teneriffe for great food and drink.

The art gallery is world-class

Brisbane’s Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) is truly world-class.Credit: Tourism and Events Querensland

That’s right friends: Brisbane has a truly world-class art gallery. The Gallery of Modern Art (GOMA) has hosted exclusive exhibitions by the likes of Andy Warhol, David Lynch, Picasso and more. There’s also an excellent permanent collection.

There’s plenty of hiking and biking

Bring your exercise gear when you come to Brisbane. There’s the Brisbane Riverwalk, a scenic boardwalk running from New Farm to Howard St Wharves; more riverside walking tracks from Kangaroo Point to West End; bushwalking to the Mt Coot-tha summit; and seaside strolls from Wynnum to Manly.

Moreton Island is just a ferry ride away

The turquoise shores of Tangalooma on Moreton Island are only a short ferry ride away.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Moreton Island is a gorgeous spot: think giant sand dunes, shallow-water shipwrecks and flawless beaches. It’s also an easy 75-minute ferry ride from Brisbane, with services departing the Pinkenba wharf four times a day.

You can climb the Story Bridge

Sydney is famous for its Harbour Bridge climb, but visitors to Brisbane might be surprised to discover they can have a similar experience on the Queensland equivalent, the Story Bridge. The climb affords views of Moreton Bay to the east and the Glass House Mountains to the north, as well as unrivalled vistas of Brisbane River and the CBD.

The food scene is popping

Diners at Agnes restaurant, enjoying the city’s vibrant food scene.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

For a while there it seemed like Brisbane was far too relaxed to ever fully embrace the fine-dining scene. But there are now many options for those who would like to take their eating to the next level. Fortitude Valley, in particular, has a host of exciting eateries, though you’ll never get bored dining in West End, South Brisbane and New Farm.

Yes, there’s alternative culture

Again, you may not immediately associate the banana-bending “Sunshine State” with alternative culture – but you’d wrong. Check out street art and LGBTQ-friendly bars and clubs in Fortitude Valley; laneways and art galleries in South Brisbane; and plenty of vegan cafes, music venues and breweries in the West End.

You’re in the home of Bluey

Parents (and kids) may notice something oddly familiar about Brisbane. Yes, this is the home of the fictional Heeler family, and the perfectly observed renderings of the buildings, parks and vistas of Brisbane on Bluey will make you feel instantly comfortable.

You can hear live music any night of the week

The Triffid: There’s a reason so many great music acts come out of Brisbane.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Let’s talk about great bands that have come out of Brisbane: Powderfinger, Regurgitator, the Saints, the Go-Betweens, Ball Park Music, DZ Deathrays … These acts don’t just appear out of nowhere. They need places to play. And Brisbane has plenty of live music venues, so much so that you’re bound to find a decent gig on any night of the week. Try the Triffid, Black Bear Lodge, the Prince Consort, the Tivoli or the Zoo.

Pub culture is booming

Brisbane loves a pub. The Brekkie Creek remains beloved, but there are so many others to check out. Call by Queensland classics such as the Regatta, the Normanby and the Pineapple Hotel, soak up history at the Alliance, take in views from the Story Bridge Hotel, and visit a CBD icon at the Transcontinental.

Accommodation has gone fancy

Crystalbrook Vincent’s rooftop pool, next to the Story Bridge, is hard to beat.

You want to stay somewhere unique? A small hotel filled with charm and character? Somewhere luxurious, but not outrageously expensive? Then Brisbane has you covered. Check into The Calile, The Inchcolm by Ovolo, Crystalbrook Vincent, or The Johnson.

You can enjoy some park life

Brisbane is filled with parks. There’s green space everywhere you look, and usually perfect weather in which to enjoy it. Roma Street Parkland is gorgeous, New Farm Park is always a good time, the City Botanic Gardens are worth a stroll, South Bank Parklands are also excellent … and that’s just the start.

Suncorp Stadium is right in the city

Brisbane’s Suncorp Stadium is smack-bang in the centre of the city.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

Sydneysiders will be shocked at this: you don’t need to schlep to the outer suburbs to enjoy world-class sporting and musical events in Brisbane. The 53,000-seat Suncorp Stadium is in Milton, walking distance from the CBD, and right beside pubs and restaurants on Caxton Street and Given Terrace.

This is a city that grows on you

Despite all you’ve read here, Brisbane may still take a little while to reveal its charms. It doesn’t have the outrageous beauty of Sydney or Perth, or the long-established foodie culture of Melbourne or Adelaide. However, the more time you spend in Brisbane, the more you appreciate just how great this laid-back capital is – and the less you want to leave.