Marchesa
Small, busy and as harmonious as a barbershop quartet.
Italian$$
For five years, this modest space was the beloved Spaghetti Bar. Then co-owner and chef Daniel Whelan joined forces with Daniel Saligari from Midnight Starling next door, flipping it into this peach and pistachio-toned charmer.
While Saligari maintains a happy hum among diners, Whelan cooks Italian food that’s peasant at heart but executed with finesse. Vitello tonnato is tweaked, with the veal roasted (not poached) and dressed with a luscious confit tuna mayonnaise and crisp capers.
A single large raviolo balloons with hare, pork and liver filling, a bold combination matched by puddles of cheesy sauce and a chianti reduction. Tiramisu sneaks in a cocktail’s worth of booze, including the herbal liqueur Strega, marsala and Galliano. This is food you’ll still be thinking about weeks later.
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Original URL: https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/goodfood/vic-good-food-guide/marchesa-20241116-p5kr5f.html