Vatan may not look remarkable, but there is much to remark on, including the service (helpful), the flatbread (massive) and the rice (light and fluffy, with a stick of butter perched outrageously on top). You’ll get both of the latter with any of the kebab plates, plus a zesty salad. Splashing out on the lush grilled eggplant starter will add an extra dimension and round off an inexpensive and generously sized meal. And if you want to avoid eating that stick of butter, you’d better be quick, as it will soon melt into your rice, staining it yellow and rendering it irresistible.